GEMILANG 117: "From Top to Toe"...: COSTUME & FASHION-LACE-TAPESTRY-TEXTILES (2015).

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BÜHLER, A., Plangi. Formen und Verbreitung eines Reserveverfahrens zur Musterung von Textilien. Sonderausstellung vom 28. März 1969 bis Februar 1970.
Basel, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1969 Small 8°, pictorial wraps., 36pp. of introd. text & extensive text to the textiles exhibited. Ills. on 16 plates o.o.t.
Special exhibition as held in the Basle Museum of Anthropology, listing tog. 35 interesting textiles from Indonesia, Central Asia & India, North Africa, China, Japan, etc. Very nice & instructive catalogue.

See also our other catalogues:
- GEMILANG 160: Exotic Fabrics, Fibres, Dyes, Deying & Sample Albums,(Batik, Ikat, Kasuri, Tapa, design, looms). (2014)
- GEMILANG 172: Asia, Southeastasia and the Far East (Cambodia, China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Thailand, Vietnam). (2015)
EUR 45.00

Book nr.: 1386

BÜHLER, A., U. RAMSEYER & N. RAMSEYER-GYGI, Patola und Geringsing. Zeremonialtücher aus Indien und Indonesien. Führer durch das Museum für Völkerkunde & Schweiz. Museum f. Volkskunde.Sonderausstellung 1975/1976.
Basel, Museum für Völkerkunde, 1975 Square 8°, decorative wraps., 72pp. Many ills. on 24 plates out-of-text, of which 2 coloured, plates, some text-ills., of which depicting looms, a bibliography to each section, sketch-map in text. ADDED: A large diagramme illustrating a loom for Patola weaving, with key in german language at tail, and some technical Ms. annotations by Dr. Rita Bolland, printed on recte of a stiff leave, centre-folded. with ms. remarks. in dutch by Dr. Rital Bolland, in Ms. in ink.
Catalogue of and guide to a special exhibition as held at the Basle Anthropological Museum on ceremonial woven cloths from India, Patola, and Indonesia, Geringsing, (mainly from Bali, preceded by a concise general inroduction on the subject. Catalogue with exentsive technical descriptions to 77 cloths exhibited. From the library of Dr. Rita Bolland, a dutch expert in the field, her name, date of acquisition in Ms. in ink on ti.-p. Good copy.

See also our other catalogues:
- GEMILANG 160: Exotic Fabrics, Fibres, Dyes, Deying & Sample Albums,(Batik, Ikat, Kasuri, Tapa, design, looms). (2014)
- GEMILANG 184: Bali and Lombok (2014)
- GEMILANG 172: Asia, Southeastasia and the Far East (Cambodia, China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Thailand, Vietnam). (2015)
EUR 75.00

Book nr.: 45446

BÜHLER, A., Plangi. - E.K. GOUGH, A comparison of Incest Prohibitions and the rules of Exogamy in three Matrilineal Groups of the Malabar- a. 2 other essays. Published in:"IAV, XLVI-1".
Leiden, brill, 1952 large 4°. orig. wraps. 119pp. 22 large text-ills, bibliogr. (to the article by Bühler). ["IAV", vol. XLVI-1].
A very important essay on Plangi from Afghanistan, Ivory Coast, India, Eastern Java, Sumatra(Palembang) as compared. The Gough-essay covers pp. [82]-105. Other 2 essays by: W.Schmidt, Der Konzeptionsglaube Australischer Stämme. pp. 37-81. And: H.Th. Fischer, Polyandry. pp. [106]-115.

See also our other catalogues:
- GEMILANG 155: OCEANIA:(Irian Jaya, Melanesia, Papua New Guinea, Polynesia) (2015).
- GEMILANG 160: Exotic Fabrics, Fibres, Dyes, Deying & Sample Albums,(Batik, Ikat, Kasuri, Tapa, design, looms). (2014)
- GEMILANG 173: Sumatera/Sumatra (incl. Enggano, Nias, Mentawei) (2014).
- GEMILANG 172: Asia, Southeastasia and the Far East (Cambodia, China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Thailand, Vietnam). (2015)
EUR 160.00

Book nr.: 11521

BÜHLER, A[lfred], Materialien zur Kenntnis der Ikat Technik Definition und bezeichnungen geschichtliches mechanische verarbeitung des Garnes. Orig. edn.
Leiden, E.J. Brill, 1943 Folio, original wrappers title and publ. monogramme on front wrapper. Hftitle (verso with publ. provenance). (xi), 511pp. 266 black/white text-ills., figs. and diagrams with concise technical explications, some tables in text, concise list of major museum collections, bibliography, table of contents. ["Internationales Archiv für Ethnographie", Suppl. zu Band XLIII].
Comparative study researching into the history and development of both single- and double Ikat weaving techniques on so-called primitive and advanced looms. Application of a variety of fibres used, natural dyes and the process of dyeing. Techniques and finished products are compared of Indonesia, the asian subcontinent, incl. Japan (Kasuri), America and Europe. A fundamental study, still of great importance. Very good, untrimmed copy. Very rare.

See also our other catalogue:
- GEMILANG 160: Exotic Fabrics, Fibres, Dyes, Deying & Sample Albums,(Batik, Ikat, Kasuri, Tapa, design, looms). (2014)
EUR 750.00

Book nr.: 47059

BÜHLER-OPPENHEIM, K[ristin] & A[lbert], Die Textiliensammlung Fritz Iklé-Huber im Museum für Völkerkunde und Schweizerischen Museum für Volkskunde, Basel. {Grundlagen zur Systematik der gesamten textilen Techniken). Orig. edn.
Zürich, Kommissionsverlag Gebruder Fretz, 1948 Folio, recent cloth, orig. printed wrappers bound-up. (vi), page [83]-267. Coloured frontispiece (a woollen Ikat from ancient Peru, warped technique), 2 other plates bearing coloured illustrations, with extensive captions, 159 text-ills., figs. and diagrams, of which a number fairly large-sized, extensive bibliography, footnotes, table of contents and an introduction. ["Denkschriften der Schweizerischen Naturforschenden Gesellschaft/Mémoires de la Société Helvétiquedes Sciences Naturelles", Band LXXVIII, Abh. 2/Vol. LXXVIII, Mém. 2; Herausgegeben mit Subvention der Eidgenossenschaft von der Denkschriften Kommission.].
A lavishly illustrated and scientific technical description of the famlus Fritz Iklé-Huber collection of woven textiles from East and West as present in the Basle Museum of textiles, incl. extensive parts on primitive and advanced looms. Still one of the most important technical monographs ever published describing one of the most important collections of the world. From the Library of [Dr.] Rita Bolland, her name and acquisition-date in ink on recte of f.e.p. Good to very good copy. Very rare.

See also our other catalogue:
- GEMILANG 160: Exotic Fabrics, Fibres, Dyes, Deying & Sample Albums,(Batik, Ikat, Kasuri, Tapa, design, looms). (2014)
EUR 750.00

Book nr.: 45372

BULLARD, D. (et.al.), Hats, Bonnets and Hairstyles - J.SWANN, Boots and Shoes - P.H. RIGDEN, Gloves. - And 6 other artt. by various authors. Publ. in:"Early Victorian Costume 1830-1860. Proceedings of the Third Annual Conference of the Costume Society 1969".
London, 1969 orig.wraps. 46pp. many text-ills, foot-notes & notes on contributors at end. FINE copy.

EUR 40.00

Book nr.: 36243

BULLOCK, A.-M., Lace and Lace making. First edn.
London, Batsford, 1981 Orig. boards, dustjacket. 160pp. Many black/white deteailed text-ills, depict. various kinds of old and modern pieces of lace, many diagrams in text, tools to be used, glossary of terms used, appendix, list of museum-collections and suppliers of material.
A general introduction into the history, development, origins and spread across the world of lace and lace-making, industrial lace-making and children's labour, tools, machine-made lace, other forms of lace as tatting and knitting, crochet, Teneriffe lace and modern lace-making. A lavishly illustrated and well-documented monograph on the subject. Fine copy, WITH dustjacket.

EUR 85.00

Book nr.: 44965

BURG, G. VAN DEN, Handboek voor de Schoenhandel 1948.
Nijmegen, 1948 Clothbacked pictorial coloured boards, 292pp., ills. on 12 plates of which coloured, some portrs. in text, numerous tables in text, numerous illustrated adverts at end relating to the subject, name-lists.
Dutch language official annuary for the dutch shoe trade (incl. shopkeepers). Plates mainly depict. female & male shoes, of which coloured. Scarce. (paper browning due to quality and age).

EUR 110.00

Book nr.: 10650

BURG, G. VAN DEN, Handboek voor de Schoenhandel 1947.[Originele uitgave; Original edition].
Nijmegen, 1947 Original coloured and illustrated wrappers. 218pp. Monochrome illustrations, of which cartoons, in text after drawings by Fred Julsing and F. Boom, many tables, including production, import and export statistics of footwear, list of domestic and foreign vocational journals, table of contents.
Detailed dutch language official annual textbook on behalf of dutch shoe- and footwear trade, including retailers. Good copy. (verso, blank, of front cover foxed).

EUR 110.00

Book nr.: 51001

BURKETT, Ch. W. & Cl. HAMILTON POE, Die Baumwolle. Ihre Kultur, Ernte, Verarbeitung und der Internationale Baumwollhandel. Transl. fr. the origi. English edn. ["Cotton"] by C. Heyne. First german edn. (thus).
Leipzig, 1908 Orig. lettered cloth. (vii), 303pp. frontisp., ills. on 27 plates of which 1 double-page, num. tables & graphs. in text and full-page, sketch-maps in text.
An excellent comparative treatise on cotton in a variety of aspects: cotton-growing, pests and pest-control, from raw material to fibre, spinning and machinery used, production-figures. In the last chapter special attention is paid to the cotton-production in the german african territories. Good copy.

EUR 65.00

Book nr.: 41476

BURKUNK, B. - L. OEI (et.al.), Ikat in Katoen. Oude gebruiken-nieuwe technieken. Orig. edn.
Amsterdam, Koninklijk Instituut voor de Tropen, 1982 sm. sq. 8°. orig. limp col. wraps (a modern Ikat-design, detail). 40pp. Many text-ills. of which some in colour, double-page sketch-map with key depict. the spread of Ikat across the world loosely inserted, bibliogr. ADDED: original invitation card for the vernissage, small oblong 8°, folded, with pattern to catalogue wrappers repeated, and original publisher's promotional leaflet, A-4 sized, centre-folded, printed recto/verso, with two illustrations and original ordering-form at tail of recte, left blank, loosely inserted.
Interesting and well-documented exposé on ancient Ikat-techniques and dyes, as applied to modern techniques, across the world: Western-and Central Asia, India, Indonesia, Japan, South- and Central-America, Africa. From the library of Dr. Rita Bolland, inscribed, with an additional annotation and some technical remarks to text in margins, all in Ms. Very good copy.

See also our other catalogues:
- GEMILANG 160: Exotic Fabrics, Fibres, Dyes, Deying & Sample Albums,(Batik, Ikat, Kasuri, Tapa, design, looms). (2014)
- GEMILANG 172: Asia, Southeastasia and the Far East (Cambodia, China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Thailand, Vietnam). (2015)
EUR 30.00

Book nr.: 45435

BURNAND, R., La Vie Quotidienne en 1830. Orig. edn.
Paris, 1957 orig.clothbacked pict.col. glazed boards. 94pp. of text and many plates, of which some coloured, & text-ills., pict. endpapers.
Describes the revival of the "Ancien Régime" (commonly called The Restauration) in France, under Charles X: Parisian society-life & fashions, fashions with the upper middle-class, couturiers, tailors, hair-dressers, &c...MINT copy.

EUR 45.00

Book nr.: 36129

BURNHAM, D orothy K., Cut my Cote [=Coat]. [First Printing/edition].
Toronto, Royal Ontario Museum, 1973 Oblong 8°. Original black limp wrappers, stapled. Covertitle in bold white type. Large monochrome illustration on front side featuring a Cattleman's festive coat Hungarian Transsylvania, about 1890, another white coloured specimen of a foreign cutting on lower outer cover, with explanatory text. 34pp. Some captioned monochrome illustrations featuring non-western garments in the museum collection, numerous diagrams (cutter's patterns) in text with expert explanatory text, full-page monochrome plate at rear, feauring a detail of a pattern, colophon and bibliography printed on verso, table of contents.
English language survey describing in rather detail mostly non-western garment weaving including cutter's patterns throughout, e.g.: Garments from Loom lengths without sewing, the beginning of sewn garments, the development of the shirt, a memory of skin garments?, Eastern Europe and Western Asia, Coats of the Far East.Good to very good copy. (some minimal and very occasional chafing to wrappers edges).

EUR 75.00

Book nr.: 55494

BURNHAM, HAROLD B., Four Looms. [Acauired by the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto-Canada, a description]. Offprint.
S.I., s.n. [....], 1962 Recent stiff wrappers, stitched. pp. 77-84, incl. notes to text at end, 5 ills. of looms and 3 figures (diagrammes) on 2 plates at very end.
After a concise general description of the history of weaving, author supplies a rather extensive technical description of four looms, recently acquired by the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Canada (:) Warp-weighted loom, Manndalen, North Troms, Norway; Body-tension loom for weaving double cloth, Cora Indians, Mexico; Body-tension loom ((izarrabata), Gifu prefecture, Japan. Three looms are illustrated on the plates, and also 2 illustrations of a Model-canoe sled, Northwest River, Labrador, Model canoe-sled, Davis Inlet, Labrador and 3 figs. of different shedding systems. Very interesting. Good copy. (a little bit dog-eared, ex-lib. stamp in upper right corner of first page, recto).

See also our other catalogue:
- GEMILANG 160: Exotic Fabrics, Fibres, Dyes, Deying & Sample Albums,(Batik, Ikat, Kasuri, Tapa, design, looms). (2014)
EUR 45.00

Book nr.: 45434

BUST IN CARICATURE - Buntes Busen Buch. [Title on upper cover:"Der Busen Freund").
Feldafing, s.d. [circa], 1980 sm.oblong 8°. orig. pict.col.glossy boards. [74]pp. of mildly caricatural drawings with text on the history of the female Breasts in various forms & sizes. A light-hearted booklet in MINT condition.

EUR 30.00

Book nr.: 36177
     

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